Dispatches, essays, and photographs from the Northeast. Written by people who have been there — not people who have read about it.
The road to Gurudongmar is not a road so much as a suggestion. At 17,000 feet, the engine labours and the air thins and the landscape empties of everything except rock and light.
Every December, the Naga tribes gather at Kisama Heritage Village outside Kohima and do something that no other culture on earth does quite like this — they perform for themselves, in front of strangers.
Majuli is the world's largest river island, and it is shrinking. The Brahmaputra takes a little more of it each monsoon — a few metres here, a village there. The people who live on it have been watching this happen for generations.
Every story here is a journey we helped build. Yours could be next.
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